Active dryer for hydration bladder

Designer

SurfSummitSky

Designer relation

Ingen

Kategori

Sports & Outdoor > Outdoor Sports

Licens

Creative Commons Attribution NonCommercial ShareAlike Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike

$ ↺ SA

Attribution påkrævet; kommerciel brug er ikke tilladt; ShareAlike gælder for afledte værker.

Designer commercial

None

Først set

2026-09-14 19:50

Sidst set

2026-09-14 20:52

Tags

dryingrack bottledryer waterbladder hydrationbladder

Beskrivelse

This drying rack was designed for a 2L Osprey hydration bladder. You'll notice there is a slot down the middle of the upper section of the rack. That is to accomodate the septum in the bladder that divides the inside to mitigate water sloshing around. Insert the rack carefully through the flap opening aligning the slot with the septum. There is plenty of room for the slot to pass on either side of the septum, so don't force it if you get resistance, just wiggle it gently until it slides all the way in. I've also used this with the 1.5 L Osprey bladder. The 1.5L bladder design has two septa which start wide apart near the flap opening and narrow toward the other end of the bladder. The rack will slide between the septa to about 3/4 of the way into the bladder before the space between the septa is too narrow for the rack to go in any more. I use an 80 mm 12v fan salvaged from an old computer for active drying, and I use a 4.5v 200mA DC power supply to run the fan. That gives more than enough air flow. You can use up to 12v, but that is way overkill and you get a lot of back pressure. You might even want to assemble it without a fan as a passive dryer. The gaskets are also optional and probably don't make a difference, but I'll use any excuse to print TPU. The rest of the parts I printed in PLA. The funnel piece is the only one that needs supports. In Orca Slicer, supports Type: Tree(Auto) and Style: Organic, worked well for me. Fasteners needed for assembly: Four M2.5x12 with lock nuts Eight M3x16 with lock nuts (four if you don't install a fan). You can cut the bolt lengths by 2 mm if you don't use the gaskets. This is a very large print. The tower section is just under 350 mm high. I recommend printing it in one piece, but I suppose you could try cutting it in your slicer and gluing the pieces together. I used a Creality K2 Plus which has a 350 mm x 350 mm x 350 mm print volume. I love Prusa printers (I have three), but the XL is the only one big enough to print this piece and it costs twice as much (single extruder) as the K2 Plus (which is probably a better printer anyway and comes with a four spool filament changer).